new act hdss w/release problems??

[xspsi4]

I just installed a brand new ACT hdss clutch along with a new unsprung 6 puck disk and new tob along with a speed-source stainless clutch line which was properly bled 3x over.

I tried to adjust the clutch rod ever possible way and still slips between shifts and feels like crap.

It feels like it is dragging and not releasing propperly, The pedal feels real stiff on one pump and fine the next??

I can feel it in the pedal and it is def not right.

The restrictor has been taken out of the slave as well.

I am pulling my hair out on these problems I have been having lately, I have done evo clutches many times over and I am confused on this problem.

[KING4G63]

ACT is notorious for disengagement problems. Take that clutch and throw it as far away from your car as possible. What you are feeling is not your imagination, it is now slipping because you have adjusted the rod as far in as possible to get it to disengage.

it is instead applying pressure to your clutch. I recommend the new exedy clutch, excellent release.

[xspsi4]

Yea I knew about the problems with ACT but the strange thing is that sometimes it will shift just fine.

I am sure the problem is in the hydrolic system.

[Da Fuhrer]

I hate to sound like a bandwagoner, but I was sure that everyone in the mitsu/DSM world knew that ACT products just don't seem to work well on these cars? They are unreliable, and weird at best. Some medium power Honda guys (300-400hp) seem to have decent luck but for some odd reason the Mitsu setups just don't like em. King4G63 is 100% right. I doubt it's your hydraulic system, but you could always try changing the fluid, and checking the master and slave cylinders. Honestly I think you'll find yourself looking much like a dog chasing his tail. Making lots of laps and get no further ahead

[xspsi4]

I really think it has something to do with the clutch line,I really wish someone else could feel the clutch pedal as it is just not right.

Basically it does not react fast enough kind of like if you were to sidestep the clutch and the pedal slams back to the top only if you do that in my car it won't slam back it comes back just not as fast as in should with the car off of course.

I am 100% sure it is in then hydro system but just where to look?

Could I have screwed up the clutch line install? I do not see any thing leaking.

[xspsi4]

anyone? This is kicking my ass all up and down main street.

[danl]

It sounds like the flywheel may be grooved and not flat. Similar to a DSM flywheel when it is stepped incorrectly or worn too much. The geometry of the pressure plate is not correct and you get a stiff pedal and sub par clamping pressure. Also check that the clutch disc is the correct thickness. This explains the problem with respect to a DSM:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

The theory is the same for the evo but it is pull and not push.

[xspsi4]

Well, I just replaced the slave and hard line with a brand new oem one but not to my suprise it did nothing at all.

When I did the clutch I installed a used fidenza flywheel with a new friction surface so to recap, I have replaced all of the following with new

Clutch rubber line
new oem slave and hard line
hdss pp
oem tob
friction surface of fidanza fly wheel
shifter bushings
unsprung 6 puck act disk


If the flywheel were the culprit, What would be causing this since there is no step in an evo wheel?

I am open to any theroy:)

[xspsi4]

I should add that it does not at all slip under full power if you just punch it and let it rip but it feels like I have to wait on the hydro system to catch up after shifting and applying power?

[xspsi4]

Ok, I am still fighting this.
I have installed a factory new transmission and Tre t-case so that would eliminate that.

I put in another brand new factory flywheel and a new unsprung disk as well
and I ran it at the dragstrip only to fight high rpm shifting problems, It did not want to let me shift fast but it did let me in but it felt like poo.

Also when the car is idling the trans will make a chattering/rattleing noise untill I push in the clutch and then it goes away, I am not sure if it is just how the unsprung disk acts or what but I remember when I had an unsprung in my dsm it made the same noise and I remember thinking it was the trans idler but this trans is brand new so I doubt that is the problem.

When I ran it at the strip at the end of the track the pedal went soft which is odd since it is usally stiff as shit.

I also put in yet another new slave so I am running out of things to replace here:confused:

And yes I hate ACT now and will never use them again but I need to make it the rest of this season on this clutch oh and btw When I shift I don't get that clunk or thud sound that you normally get when shifting aggressively so that strikes me as very odd as well.

Please help before I shoot myself in the junk:mad:

[Marco]

Buy an exedy clutch and ALL of your problems will be solved

[xspsi4]

Well I have heard that they are better but I have also heard their twin disk does not hold much abuse due to less clamping power vs the quartermaster.

I really like driving an unsprung single plate as this is what I am used from many years of dsm/evos before this car, So Does Exedy make anything that will hold like the act in a single plate form with an unsprung 6 puck?

I dont remember seeing anything when I looked for my ACT.

Yea, I am fired!!:mad: I so knew better than to order this stupid clutck kit but the only reason I did was because it worked very well in my last evo and would shift just fine at 9k so I just guess I expected this one to do the same.

The thing that bothers me is the fact that I don't know what causes this problem and I would like to find an answer before I move on to the next clutch kit, I should mention that I am super hard on clutches and if I get 7-8k miles out of them I would be stoked.

[Marco]

Its a sprung 3 puck. I'm sure the first thing you will notice is that it will shift, and it wont block you out of gears.
After that you'll forget about all else, and actually drive your car instead of spending countless hours and money changing parts because they convinced you their was no problem with their clutch.

All of Exedy's clutchs are exactly the same, not some work and some don't because they are an OEM supplier, and ISO registered. So do yourself a favor and take the advice that you asked for and buy the right clutch